Port of Call: Abaco, Bahamas
by Carol Reed

Off the coast of Florida, kissed by trade winds, lies a pristine, 130-mile chain of out-islands called the Abacos. Here, the Bahama banks are blessed with luscious, clear blue waters. Excellent cruising grounds are sprinkled with sheltered harbors, marinas, secluded beaches, and welcoming settlements. Night-life usually involves star-gazing, a relaxed cocktail, and the sounds of wavelets on your hull. The islands are peopled by friendly, modest folk who are the descendants of Loyalists who fled the U.S. colonies after the Revolutionary War.

Sailors who cross to the Abacos usually depart from West Palm Beach or Lake Worth, Florida; the most direct route. The first stop is West End on Grand Bahama, 56 miles due east. Here, one an clear customs and refuel, then press on about 170 miles to Abaco. However, a Gulf Stream crossing can be tricky, and breaking seas called "the rage" can occur locally. For more detailed information, check out a book such as Steve Dodge's Cruising Guide to Abaco, available from White Sound Press.

An alternate approach may be to charter in Abaco from reputable companies such as the Moorings (Moorings.com),or Florida Yacht Charters.

But either way, once you have arrived, there are charming cays unspoiled by large-scale tourism, to explore and to fall in love with.

The main island is Great Abaco, with its "bustling" town of Marsh Harbour and its one traffic light. This third-largest town in the Bahamas (population 1,100), has a small airport, as well as commercial docks with a port of entry, customs, and immigration. There are a few supermarkets and beverage shops which are not large by U.S. standards, but are the best for provisioning and close to the public dock. Marine supplies, restaurants, and shopping boutiques are nearby. Despite the hub of activity, it is a small town where folks will smile and lend you a hand.

The Marinas

Of great allure to cruisers are the marinas that ring Marsh Harbour. The Conch Inn Marina is the largest, with 75 slips including deep water berths. It offers electric service, cable TV, water, ice, and showers. There is a fuel dock, laundry, pool, and harbor-front bar/restaurant with nine-room hotel. It is also home base for Moorings Yacht Charter and for Dive Abaco. (Conch Inn Hotel & Marina 242-367-4000; Dive Abaco 1-800-247- 5338).

Directly opposite Conch Inn is the 50 slip Marsh Harbour Marina with Jib Room Bar and Restaurant. (www.jibroom.com) The Jib Room plays host to the Royal Marsh Harbour Yacht Club as well as to lively Bar-b-q nights with music and dancing. Dockage and fuel are available, along with water and electricity. Only steps away is "Mermaid Reef" where excellent, easy snorkeling can be reached from shore or by boat.

A few of the smaller marinas such as Harbour View and Triple J. offer Whaler-type boat rentals by the day or week.

Outside of the main harbour, on the southeast shore of Great Abaco, is Boat Harbour Marina. This location welcomes sport fishermen, and sponsors annual tournaments. The beautiful 180 slip marina can accommodate yachts of up to 200 feet. It features fuel, laundry, complete services, and the Great Abaco Resort. On site are a small beach, bars, the fine Angler's water-side restaurant, occasional music, pool, grocery and liquor store. This resort is open to the public, and worth a visit. (800-468- 4799; Great Abaco Beach Resort)

North of Marsh Harbour, but part of Great Abaco, is Treasure Cay Resort and Marina (1-800-327-1584; www.treasurecay.com). This locale has an elegant feel, with a 150 slip marina, pool and bar, up-scale Spinnaker restaurant, and all services including laundry and showers. Small grocers, boutiques, and a bank are within walking distance. The only golf course in the Abacos is located on Treasure Cay. There are also some impressive villas and a sugar-sand crescent of beach that is reputed to be one of the most beautiful in the world. At beach-side sits a relaxed "tiki bar" with water sports rentals.

A Cruiser's Net links islanders and yachtsmen, alike, on VHF 68. It is an information-filled network that broadcasts sea and eather conditions, departures, arrivals, and gossip each morning at 8:15 AM.

The Cays, the Conch, and the Bliss

From Marsh Harbour there is easy access to Abaco's tranquil arch of islets, the Cays. These can be reached by boat or ferry in under an hour. They are inhabited by hospitable people who make a livelihood from the sea or by running small businesses, while living in an island suspended time-warp. Visitors can discover magnificently deserted beaches that bestow bliss, invite romance, and evoke privateer legends. None of these fantasy islands has the remotest connection to Nassau, gaming, surly crowds, or slick salesmen.

Close to shore lie reefs teeming with tropical fish. These are easily accessible for diving or snorkeling, and tours can be arranged. Dolphin and whales may be observed playing here.

Post-card pretty towns offer cottages or simple small resorts. Architectural style often reflects Abaco's Colonial-Loyalist past warmed with the passion of Caribbean detail and color. Bougainvillaea melts over picket fences, and hummingbirds flirt with hibiscus. The endangered Abaco parrot plays hide-and-seek in Casurina pine forests. Roads are not wide enough for a car. Instead, people get about in golf-carts, or by bike, or they walk!

One of the most charming places to explore is Elbow Cay, and the settlement of Hope Town. Abaco's past comes alive with narrow winding streets flanked by picturesque clapboard houses and flowering gardens. The signature of Hope Town is its much photographed, red and white, candy striped lighthouse. Opened in 1863, the light still operates as it did then, with a hand- operated brass mechanism. A climb to the top offers the breathtaking reward of a view of Hope Town Harbour. There are two small marinas in the Harbour, and a public dock. There is also an ocean-side beach for strolling or swimming.

There are several very good restaurants in Hope Town, and a popular island specialty is conch ("conk"). This is the crustacean-critter found in the lustrous pink shell. It can be coaxed into a variety of succulent forms such as chowder, fritters, and even burgers. Don't be shy! Sample this delicacy as a part of the Abaco experience. And cool down the tangy sauces with a local Kalik Beer.

Another spot that invites a venture is Green Turtle Cay's New Plymouth. You may believe that you have come ashore in Colonial New England. The population here is about 500. But the hospitality is grand, with unique inns such as Bluff House and the New Plymouth Inn. There are grocers, good restaurants, and bakeries that produce tender, sweet Bahama bread. The Green Turtle Club and Marina offers 32 slips, full services, rooms, beaches, pools, tennis, and Bahamian style dining. (1-800- outisla or Green Turtle Club). Much of this island can be explored on foot or by bike.

Man-O-War Cay is a quiet, "dry" community that displays a proud, boat-building heritage. It has small shops, the Man-O-War Marina, and the Albury family sail-loft. Here, friendly ladies chat and sew canvas as you shop. They design an amazing variety of items which make marvelous souvenirs.

Great Guana Cay, with its beautiful five-mile beach, impressive barrier reef, and ocean-front pubs, is a tiny island of about 100 regular residents (www.abacos.net/guana). It is just now becoming developed with second homes and a new marina. The harbor is shallow, and larger vessels should anchor off and dinghy in. A grocery, beverage shop, and tiny hardware store ring the picturesque shore. Round-trip ferry service from Marsh Harbour runs daily. Don't let the "unpleasant" name fool you!

The Abacos are a congenial, natural, cruiser's destination. Perhaps your cell phone won't work there, and you will find only one ATM machine. Nevertheless, a little "taste" of Abaco is a bit like your first taste of a conch fritter appetizer. You will surely want more! Consider this a starter, and investigate further. (Out Island Internet)

Those who visit will tell you, Abaco in the Bahamas is as good as it gets!

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Carol Reed is a freelance writer who enjoys being in and on the water. She is a teacher and a Rutgers University graduate. Her most recent trip to Abaco, Bahamas was in November, 2000. She and her husband "discovered" the island in 1992, and have returned every year since.

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